Saturday on St. Martin

Beach petsWell the first day of our last week dawned bright and clear (again). I got in the ocean here at Dawn Beach, but the waves are just too strong to make the snorkeling enjoyable. We’ve heard this is one of the best beaches, but only when the current is mild. So far, it has not been mild at all. The swimming is a lot of fun, but again, the current can be challenging.

Two We talked to some locals and they suggested Friar’s Bay as a great snorkeling place. We had already been there and had a nice enough time. They told us that we had snorkeled the wrong side of the bay, and that we should have gone up the right hand side. So, we figured, what the heck, let’s go give it a whirl. And they were right!

The bay was very calm today, with hardly a ripple on the ocean. Entry to the ocean was on some nice soft sand, and we quickly headed over to the rocks. We saw tons of stuff we had not seen anywhere else on the island. AND we saw some things we’ve not seen on any island! For me, the highlight was seeing stick crabs, crabs that have long very skinny legs. We had never seen any before, except in nature shows. That was so cool.

Another gorgeous Queen AngelWe also spotted four types of moray eel. There were Queen Angelfish, another boxfish, and Pam’s favorite fish, a Nassau Grouper! There were plenty of other fish we have not seen before and which we haven’t even been able to name yet!

The problem again, is my photography. I’m doing a terrible job of capturing these beauties. You’d think after all this time I’d be getting good at it, but it’s so hit and miss. It’s very discouraging actually.

Cool looking moray eelWe had lunch at Friar’s Bay Beach Cafe. If you should come to this beach, be sure to bypass this ripoff joint. We had two clubhouse sandwiches, one meat and cheese sandwich, and “chicken fingers” (with only two “fingers”), two beer and two coke. Price: $117.00. The food was not even very good. Ordinary would be stretching it. Eight bucks for a beer, when the most we’ve paid has been $2.50 anywhere else, even on pricey Pinel Island. Outrageous.

We piled back into the ocean for another leisurely snorkel up the right coast. It was great fun, and we got to see just tons of fish. The water clarity was very good, and we saw more morays, other fun stuff.

Maurice diving to take yet another bad pictureWe got back to the hotel for a soak in the hot tub, then off to dinner at a French restaurant called “Le Plainteur” just across the marina from our hotel on the French side. It is perched on top of a hill with a beautiful view of our hotel and the surrounding hillside. That was as good as it got.

Here it is snowing in St. Maarten!We should have learned from the French ripoff at lunch, but I guess we’re stubborn. The owner’s children playing far too loudly in the dining room was off-putting from the minute we walked in.

I ordered French Onion Soup. It was too cold to be called soup really. The Mahi Mahi Creole was served in tinfoil, and didn’t resemble anything Creole I’ve ever had. It was accompanied by a scoop of some overcooked mass of something indiscernible. The plating technique left something to be desired, to say the least. Dessert was Flambeed Bananas that were cooked beyond recognition. For me, this was one the worst meals I’ve ever had to pay so much money for! Honestly, for “French Food” this wouldn’t even pass as cafeteria food. Again give this place a bypass. You’ll be glad you did.

Saturday on St. Martin

Beach petsWell the first day of our last week dawned bright and clear (again). I got in the ocean here at Dawn Beach, but the waves are just too strong to make the snorkeling enjoyable. We’ve heard this is one of the best beaches, but only when the current is mild. So far, it has not been mild at all. The swimming is a lot of fun, but again, the current can be challenging.

Two We talked to some locals and they suggested Friar’s Bay as a great snorkeling place. We had already been there and had a nice enough time. They told us that we had snorkeled the wrong side of the bay, and that we should have gone up the right hand side. So, we figured, what the heck, let’s go give it a whirl. And they were right!

The bay was very calm today, with hardly a ripple on the ocean. Entry to the ocean was on some nice soft sand, and we quickly headed over to the rocks. We saw tons of stuff we had not seen anywhere else on the island. AND we saw some things we’ve not seen on any island! For me, the highlight was seeing stick crabs, crabs that have long very skinny legs. We had never seen any before, except in nature shows. That was so cool.

Another gorgeous Queen AngelWe also spotted four types of moray eel. There were Queen Angelfish, another boxfish, and Pam’s favorite fish, a Nassau Grouper! There were plenty of other fish we have not seen before and which we haven’t even been able to name yet!

The problem again, is my photography. I’m doing a terrible job of capturing these beauties. You’d think after all this time I’d be getting good at it, but it’s so hit and miss. It’s very discouraging actually.

Cool looking moray eelWe had lunch at Friar’s Bay Beach Cafe. If you should come to this beach, be sure to bypass this ripoff joint. We had two clubhouse sandwiches, one meat and cheese sandwich, and “chicken fingers” (with only two “fingers”), two beer and two coke. Price: $117.00. The food was not even very good. Ordinary would be stretching it. Eight bucks for a beer, when the most we’ve paid has been $2.50 anywhere else, even on pricey Pinel Island. Outrageous.

We piled back into the ocean for another leisurely snorkel up the right coast. It was great fun, and we got to see just tons of fish. The water clarity was very good, and we saw more morays, other fun stuff.

Maurice diving to take yet another bad pictureWe got back to the hotel for a soak in the hot tub, then off to dinner at a French restaurant called “Le Plainteur” just across the marina from our hotel on the French side. It is perched on top of a hill with a beautiful view of our hotel and the surrounding hillside. That was as good as it got.

Here it is snowing in St. Maarten!We should have learned from the French ripoff at lunch, but I guess we’re stubborn. The owner’s children playing far too loudly in the dining room was off-putting from the minute we walked in.

I ordered French Onion Soup. It was too cold to be called soup really. The Mahi Mahi Creole was served in tinfoil, and didn’t resemble anything Creole I’ve ever had. It was accompanied by a scoop of some overcooked mass of something indiscernible. The plating technique left something to be desired, to say the least. Dessert was Flambeed Bananas that were cooked beyond recognition. For me, this was one the worst meals I’ve ever had to pay so much money for! Honestly, for “French Food” this wouldn’t even pass as cafeteria food. Again give this place a bypass. You’ll be glad you did.

Saturday on St. Martin

Beach petsWell the first day of our last week dawned bright and clear (again). I got in the ocean here at Dawn Beach, but the waves are just too strong to make the snorkeling enjoyable. We’ve heard this is one of the best beaches, but only when the current is mild. So far, it has not been mild at all. The swimming is a lot of fun, but again, the current can be challenging.

Two We talked to some locals and they suggested Friar’s Bay as a great snorkeling place. We had already been there and had a nice enough time. They told us that we had snorkeled the wrong side of the bay, and that we should have gone up the right hand side. So, we figured, what the heck, let’s go give it a whirl. And they were right!

The bay was very calm today, with hardly a ripple on the ocean. Entry to the ocean was on some nice soft sand, and we quickly headed over to the rocks. We saw tons of stuff we had not seen anywhere else on the island. AND we saw some things we’ve not seen on any island! For me, the highlight was seeing stick crabs, crabs that have long very skinny legs. We had never seen any before, except in nature shows. That was so cool.

Another gorgeous Queen AngelWe also spotted four types of moray eel. There were Queen Angelfish, another boxfish, and Pam’s favorite fish, a Nassau Grouper! There were plenty of other fish we have not seen before and which we haven’t even been able to name yet!

The problem again, is my photography. I’m doing a terrible job of capturing these beauties. You’d think after all this time I’d be getting good at it, but it’s so hit and miss. It’s very discouraging actually.

Cool looking moray eelWe had lunch at Friar’s Bay Beach Cafe. If you should come to this beach, be sure to bypass this ripoff joint. We had two clubhouse sandwiches, one meat and cheese sandwich, and “chicken fingers” (with only two “fingers”), two beer and two coke. Price: $117.00. The food was not even very good. Ordinary would be stretching it. Eight bucks for a beer, when the most we’ve paid has been $2.50 anywhere else, even on pricey Pinel Island. Outrageous.

We piled back into the ocean for another leisurely snorkel up the right coast. It was great fun, and we got to see just tons of fish. The water clarity was very good, and we saw more morays, other fun stuff.

Maurice diving to take yet another bad pictureWe got back to the hotel for a soak in the hot tub, then off to dinner at a French restaurant called “Le Plainteur” just across the marina from our hotel on the French side. It is perched on top of a hill with a beautiful view of our hotel and the surrounding hillside. That was as good as it got.

Here it is snowing in St. Maarten!We should have learned from the French ripoff at lunch, but I guess we’re stubborn. The owner’s children playing far too loudly in the dining room was off-putting from the minute we walked in.

I ordered French Onion Soup. It was too cold to be called soup really. The Mahi Mahi Creole was served in tinfoil, and didn’t resemble anything Creole I’ve ever had. It was accompanied by a scoop of some overcooked mass of something indiscernible. The plating technique left something to be desired, to say the least. Dessert was Flambeed Bananas that were cooked beyond recognition. For me, this was one the worst meals I’ve ever had to pay so much money for! Honestly, for “French Food” this wouldn’t even pass as cafeteria food. Again give this place a bypass. You’ll be glad you did.

Saturday on St. Martin

Beach petsWell the first day of our last week dawned bright and clear (again). I got in the ocean here at Dawn Beach, but the waves are just too strong to make the snorkeling enjoyable. We’ve heard this is one of the best beaches, but only when the current is mild. So far, it has not been mild at all. The swimming is a lot of fun, but again, the current can be challenging.

Two We talked to some locals and they suggested Friar’s Bay as a great snorkeling place. We had already been there and had a nice enough time. They told us that we had snorkeled the wrong side of the bay, and that we should have gone up the right hand side. So, we figured, what the heck, let’s go give it a whirl. And they were right!

The bay was very calm today, with hardly a ripple on the ocean. Entry to the ocean was on some nice soft sand, and we quickly headed over to the rocks. We saw tons of stuff we had not seen anywhere else on the island. AND we saw some things we’ve not seen on any island! For me, the highlight was seeing stick crabs, crabs that have long very skinny legs. We had never seen any before, except in nature shows. That was so cool.

Another gorgeous Queen AngelWe also spotted four types of moray eel. There were Queen Angelfish, another boxfish, and Pam’s favorite fish, a Nassau Grouper! There were plenty of other fish we have not seen before and which we haven’t even been able to name yet!

The problem again, is my photography. I’m doing a terrible job of capturing these beauties. You’d think after all this time I’d be getting good at it, but it’s so hit and miss. It’s very discouraging actually.

Cool looking moray eelWe had lunch at Friar’s Bay Beach Cafe. If you should come to this beach, be sure to bypass this ripoff joint. We had two clubhouse sandwiches, one meat and cheese sandwich, and “chicken fingers” (with only two “fingers”), two beer and two coke. Price: $117.00. The food was not even very good. Ordinary would be stretching it. Eight bucks for a beer, when the most we’ve paid has been $2.50 anywhere else, even on pricey Pinel Island. Outrageous.

We piled back into the ocean for another leisurely snorkel up the right coast. It was great fun, and we got to see just tons of fish. The water clarity was very good, and we saw more morays, other fun stuff.

Maurice diving to take yet another bad pictureWe got back to the hotel for a soak in the hot tub, then off to dinner at a French restaurant called “Le Plainteur” just across the marina from our hotel on the French side. It is perched on top of a hill with a beautiful view of our hotel and the surrounding hillside. That was as good as it got.

Here it is snowing in St. Maarten!We should have learned from the French ripoff at lunch, but I guess we’re stubborn. The owner’s children playing far too loudly in the dining room was off-putting from the minute we walked in.

I ordered French Onion Soup. It was too cold to be called soup really. The Mahi Mahi Creole was served in tinfoil, and didn’t resemble anything Creole I’ve ever had. It was accompanied by a scoop of some overcooked mass of something indiscernible. The plating technique left something to be desired, to say the least. Dessert was Flambeed Bananas that were cooked beyond recognition. For me, this was one the worst meals I’ve ever had to pay so much money for! Honestly, for “French Food” this wouldn’t even pass as cafeteria food. Again give this place a bypass. You’ll be glad you did.

Saturday on St. Martin

Beach petsWell the first day of our last week dawned bright and clear (again). I got in the ocean here at Dawn Beach, but the waves are just too strong to make the snorkeling enjoyable. We’ve heard this is one of the best beaches, but only when the current is mild. So far, it has not been mild at all. The swimming is a lot of fun, but again, the current can be challenging.

Two We talked to some locals and they suggested Friar’s Bay as a great snorkeling place. We had already been there and had a nice enough time. They told us that we had snorkeled the wrong side of the bay, and that we should have gone up the right hand side. So, we figured, what the heck, let’s go give it a whirl. And they were right!

The bay was very calm today, with hardly a ripple on the ocean. Entry to the ocean was on some nice soft sand, and we quickly headed over to the rocks. We saw tons of stuff we had not seen anywhere else on the island. AND we saw some things we’ve not seen on any island! For me, the highlight was seeing “stick crabs” — crabs that have long very skinny legs. We had never seen any before, except in nature shows. That was so cool.

Another gorgeous Queen AngelWe also spotted four types of moray eel. There were Queen Angelfish, another boxfish, and Pam’s favorite fish, a Nassau Grouper! There were plenty of other fish we have not seen before and which we haven’t even been able to name yet!

The problem again, is my photography. I’m doing a terrible job of capturing these beauties. You’d think after all this time I’d be getting good at it, but it’s so hit and miss. It’s very discouraging actually.

Cool looking moray eel We had lunch at Friar’s Bay Beach Cafe. If you should come to this beach, be sure to bypass this ripoff joint. We had two clubhouse sandwiches, one meat and cheese sandwich, and “chicken fingers” (with only two “fingers”), two beer and two coke. Price: $117.00… The food was not even very good. Ordinary would be stretching it. Eight bucks for a beer, when the most we’ve paid has been $2.50 anywhere else, even on pricey Pinel Island. Outrageous.

We piled back into the ocean for another leisurely snorkel up the right coast. It was great fun, and we got to see just tons of fish. The water clarity was very good, and we saw more morays, other fun stuff.

Maurice diving to take yet another bad pictureWe got back to the hotel for a soak in the hot tub, then off to dinner at a French restaurant called “Le Plainteur” just across the marina from our hotel on the French side. It is perched on top of a hill with a beautiful view of our hotel and the surrounding hillside. That was as good as it got.

Here it is snowing in St. Maarten!We should have learned from the French ripoff at lunch, but I guess we’re stubborn. The owner’s children playing far too loudly in the dining room was off-putting from the minute we walked in. I ordered French Onion Soup. It was too cold to be called soup really. The Mahi Mahi Creole was served in tinfoil, and didn’t resemble anything Creole I’ve ever had. It was accompanied by a scoop of some overcooked mass of something indiscernible. The plating technique left something to be desired, to say the least! Dessert was Flambeed Bananas that were cooked beyond recognition. For me, this was one the worst meals I’ve ever had to pay so much money for!! Honestly, for “French Food” this wouldn’t even pass as cafeteria food. Again give this place a bypass. You’ll be glad you did.

Baie Rouge

Cupecoy BeachWell I was the late riser today! Slept in til nearly 10 – guess being tossed aound the rocks didn’t suit me. We had a late breakfast then headed to the French side for a beach called Plum Bay.

Public artA NOTE: I’ve referred to the island in a number of ways – St. Maarten, Sint Maarten, and St. Martin – the reason is that there are two distinct sides to the island – Sint Maarten is the Dutch side, sometimes abbreviated as St. Maarten. St. Martin is the French side. There are markers to remind you when you cross the border, but since 1848 there have been no border checks, or border guards. Some people, incorrectly, refer to the island as St. Marteen, but that is wrong, and is caused by a confusion over the way the French say the name of the island.

Baie Rouge, St. Maarten Because we got moving later in the day, we ran into traffic problems, and we got hot waiting at BOTH traffic lights, so we decided to give Cupecoy Beach a try. Well, let me tell you a secret – nude beaches are NOT what they are cracked up to be. Those people you want to see in the nude, are NOT at the nude beaches. The first person we saw was approximately 65 and about 280 pounds. Not a pretty sight. And it got worse. We tried to come up with a formula, and decided if you weigh over 300 pounds, it’s better to keep your clothes on! Unfortunately, these guidelines were exceeded – often! We saw the largest, hairiest ass you’ve ever seen! Tim tried to issue them a citation with the words, “Do you know how fat you were going??”

Seriously, Cupecoy Beach is NOT worth going to – it has an incredibly steep descent down a cliff, with broken stairs, and the ocean is far too choppy to want to swim in, let alone try to snorkel in. If you enjoy ogling exceptionally fat, hairy, old people, you’ve got a dream destination!

We QUICKLY got back in the car and headed to Baie Rouge (Red Bay) and it was an exquisite beach. A huge curving bay, with lots of parking, easy stair access to a uniquely sanded beach. Most of the beaches we have been to have this fine powdery sand, but Baie Rouge has a sand similar to the beaches of Mazatlan, with a larger, coarser texture. Maggie referred to as like corn meal, but it was even larger than that.

Devil's Hole The entrance to water was easy, with sand quite a ways out. The waves were mild, almost non-existent, except right at the water’s edge. As soon as we hit the water, there was a school of palometas. But the water is not as clear and the visibility is not as good as Aruba or the Cayman Islands. There were plenty of fish, especially to the right of the bay. Unfortunately, we have not managed to get good pictures underwater. I’m not sure why, but there are a number of factors – the waves keeps the water churning, making it cloudy, and oxygenated. Most of the pictures we’ve taken have been murky and unfocused, almost like the camera focuses on the “sparkly bits” in the water rather than the fish.

Blue tangs We had lunch at “Chez Raymond’s,” a beach side bar and grill. I had the shrimp stew, and it was an amazing creole concoction. The shrimp were obviously caught that morning – they were so fresh they tasted like little tiny lobsters. I’ve had shrimp on this island nearly every day and these were easily the best. BY FAR! BY FAR!!

We stayed at Baie Rouge most of the day, and got back to the condo in the late evening. A really fine and fun day.

We had a late dinner at Daniel’s, the restaurant that Mr. Busby’s Beach Bar turns into at night. Honestly though, the restaurant is overpriced for the value. You sit on the same plastic beach chairs, with plastic tables. The food was less than ordinary, and the service indifferent at best. In my opinion, this is because they force you to pay a 15% service charge, so there is no incentive for the staff to provide stellar service, so they do not.

We have found an Argentinian Steakhouse so we’re eagerly looking forward to trying them out. It is a long drive from here, but I’m betting it will be worth it!

Anse Marcel

Anse MarcelWe are staying at Dawn Beach, and one day we’ll make it up in time to see the sun come up – well I might, but Pam certainly won’t! The waves can be quite high here, so in order to snorkel we need to make sure it’s a bit calm. We’ve been in and it’s great, but the snorkeling has been less than we hoped.

Spotted trunkfishWith that in mind, we headed over to Anse Marcel on the French side, towards the far north of the island. It is a big bay, with lovely fine sand leading into the warm water. It was quite cloudy to start, but once we got clear of the sand and moved toward the rocks, we had some great snorkeling, the best we’ve had so far. The water was calm, with little wave action so it really was great, despite all the topless women.

Cocoa DamselfishWe finally got to see one of my flat-bottomed dudes too! Pam and Maggie and Tim managed to see a blue peacock flounder, and an eel of some kind too. There were the usual assortment of smaller reef fish. There were some French angels, lots of parrot fish, including the colorful rainbow parrots.

Sea urchinsWe headed back to Grand Case for a late lunch (around 3!) and tried a different lolo than yesterday, called The Sky’s the Limit. It’s great fun to eat at these places. The plates of food are amazing. Order the “full meal” and you get corn on the cob, potato salad, coleslaw, rice and beans, plantains, macaroni and cheese, vegetables AND your ribs, fish or chicken. All for 11 bucks.

Wedding Back at the hotel we watched a wedding right on the beach, complete with doves being released! How romantic. After the nuptials, we relaxed in the hot tub and enjoyed the happy hour. More iced drinks in honor of Peter and Calgary’s icy conditions. And soon to be Vancouver’s lot I here too… that’s a real shame! We’re thinking of you – and trying not to laugh tooo toooo hard!

For dinner we headed to Big Fish, a restaurant located right on the dock at the marina. We were welcomed with a handshake by Brenda. An amazing restaurant really. Most restaurants here, and all the Caribbean for that matter, add 15% to the total, and then try to pry an even bigger tip out of you. Not so at the Big Fish. They put on every page of their menu that they believe you should reward good service, and you set the price. Nice.

The food was remarkable. Plated on wavy fine china, my dinner of “Mahi Mahi Renee” was truly memorable. Stuffed with crab and topped with lobster sauce, it was a taste sensation. Their soups were served in nifty mini dutch ovens, complete with lid! Service was friendly and efficient. The setting right on the dock, was very romantic and idyllic.

We are staying at Dawn Beach, and one day we’ll make it up in time to see thesun come up – well I might, but Pam certainly won’t! The waves can be quitehigh here, so in order to snorkel we need to make sure it’s a bit calm. We’ve

been in and it’s great, but the snorkelling has been less than we hoped.

With that in mind, we headed over to Anse Marcel on the French side, towards

the far north of the island. It is a big bay, with lovely fine sand leading

into the warm water. It was quite cloudy to start, but once we got clear of

the sand and moved toward the rocks, we had some great snorkelling, the best

we’ve had so far. The water was calm, with little wave action so it really was

great, despite all the topless women.

We finally got to see one of my flat-bottomed dudes too! Pam and Maggie and

Tim managed to see a blue peacock flounder, and an eel of some kind too. There

were the usual assortment of smaller reef fish. There were some french angels,

lots of parrot fish, including the colorful rainbow parrots.

We headed back to Grand Case for a late lunch (around 3!) and tried a

different lolo than yesterday, called The Sky’s the Limit. It’s great fun to

eat at these places. The plates of food are amazing. Order the “full meal” and

you get corn on the cob, potato salad, coleslaw, rice and beans, plaintain,

macaroni and cheese, vegetables AND your ribs, fish or chicken. All for 11

bucks.

Back at the hotel we watched a wedding right on the beach, complete with doves

being released! How romantic. After the nuptials, we relaxed in the hot tub

and enjoyed the happy hour. More iced drinks in honor of Peter and Calgary’s

icy conditions. And soon to be Vancouver’s lot I here too… that’s a real

shame! We’re thinking of you – and trying not to laugh tooo toooo hard!

For dinner we headed to Big Fish, a restaurant located right on the dock at

the marina. We were welcomed with a handshake by Brenda. An amazing restaurant

really. Most restaurants here, and all the Caribbean for that matter, add 15%

to the total, and then try to pry an even bigger tip out of you. Not so at the

Big Fish. They put on every page of their menu that they believe you should

reward good service, and you set the price. Nice.

The food was remarkable. Plated on wavy fine china, my dinner of “Mahi Mahi

Renee” was truly memorable. Stuffed with crab and topped with lobster sauce,

it was a taste sensation. Their soups were served in nifty mini dutch ovens,

complete with lid! Service was friendly and efficient. The setting right on

the dock, was very romantic and idylic.